Isabella Barbato’s tagliatelle with her mum’s tomato sauce

By PA

“Hand-cut tagliatelle made with semola and whole eggs, served with the slow-cooked tomato sauce that is the beating heart of this book,” says food writer Isabella Barbato. “I could not have started this book with anything else. This dish is where it all begins: my love of cooking, my sense of belonging, my first memories of family gathered around the table.

“The sauce, slow-cooked with care… our end-of-summer ritual, bottling the ripe tomatoes to last through winter. And the pasta? Golden, resilient, honest. These tagliatelle ribbons are rolled and cut by hand, the way our nonnas did, the way I still do. A reminder that tradition isn’t static. It lives on in the way we shape it.”

Isabella Barbato’s tagliatelle with her mum’s tomato sauce

Ingredients:
Serves 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes (if you have made the sauce), plus 30 minutes resting
Cooking time: 3–4 minutes

For the dough:
400g semola
4 medium eggs

To serve:
700ml Giovanna’s tomato sauce (see below for recipe)
Ragusano DOP or Parmigiano Reggiano, to serve

Method:

1. Make the dough: On a clean work surface, make a mound with the semola and create a well in the centre. Crack in the eggs and whisk gently with a fork, gradually incorporating the semola until a rough dough forms. Knead for 5-7 minutes until smooth and elastic. Cover in a dish towel and let rest for 30 minutes.

2. Roll and cut the tagliatelle: Lightly dust a work surface with semola. Divide the rested dough into 2-3 portions. Roll each piece into a thin sheet, about 1mm thick (setting 5 on a Marcato pasta machine). Dust with semola, then fold the sheets loosely lengthways into thirds or quarters, just enough to handle easily. Slice into ribbons about 6–8mm wide. Unfold and toss with semola to prevent sticking.

3. Cook and serve: Warm Giovanna’s tomato sauce in a wide pan. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Cook the tagliatelle for around 3-4 minutes, or until al dente. Using tongs, lift the pasta directly into the pan with the sauce and toss gently to combine, adding a splash of the cooking water if needed to help the sauce cling evenly. Serve immediately with a generous grating of Ragusano or Parmigiano.

Giovanna’s tomato sauce (salsa di pomodoro)

Ingredients:
Serves: 10-12
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours 50 minutes

3kg ripe tomatoes – use the best quality, local, ripe, in-season tomatoes; Roma, San Marzano or beefsteak varieties work well
1 medium onion, peeled and quartered
3 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
3tbsp extra virgin olive oil
8-10 fresh basil leaves
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste (optional)

1. Prepare the tomatoes: Roughly chop the tomatoes and add them to a large pot. Using your fist or palm, press down on the tomatoes in the pot to release their juices. This step allows the tomatoes to break down and cook without the need to add any water.

2. Start the sauce: Add the quartered onion, garlic cloves and a good pinch of sea salt. Cover the pot with a lid and place it over a medium-low heat. Do not add any additional ingredients at this stage; just bring the sauce to a simmer gently. Remove the lid occasionally to stir, ensuring nothing sticks to the bottom.

3. Simmer and reduce: After about 30 minutes of simmering, the tomatoes will have started to release their liquid. Continue simmering gently for around 2 hours, stirring occasionally. The sauce will gradually reduce by half, and you’ll see it thicken as the flavours concentrate.

4. Add the basil and olive oil: Once the sauce has reduced, add the olive oil and basil leaves. Stir well and let it cook for an additional 20 minutes, allowing the basil to infuse its aroma into the sauce.

5. Blend and finish the sauce: While the sauce is still hot, run it through a vegetable mill in batches or use a hand-held/immersion blender to grind the skins and seeds, creating a smooth consistency. Transfer the sauce to a clean pot or bowl as you work through the batches.

6. Store the sauce: If using immediately, serve with your favourite pasta. To store, transfer the sauce to sterilised jars and keep in the refrigerator for up to a week. For longer storage, vacuum-seal the jars to keep them at room temperature for several months.

Pasta Therapy by Isabella Barbato is published in hardback by Nourish Books. Photography by Isabella Barbato. Available now